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Resources > Tutorials > Tutorial 8Shooting UV Effects on Film, Video, or Digital
Although long-wave ultraviolet light (a.k.a. black light—see Science of UV) is invisible to the human eye, film stock is extremely sensitive to it. This is because silver halide, the photosensitive material used in film to detect light, is also sensitive to UV. Therefore, it’s necessary to use a high-density UV haze filter to help prevent fogging. What we want is the fluorescent effect—not the UV light itself. (See Fluorescence.) A filter is not necessary when shooting with video or digital, however. 
When shooting fluorescent effects, you’ll need much more light—a much brighter effect, in other words—than you would for a live audience. Human eyes are much more sensitive to the fluorescent effect than film. In order to determine the F-stop you need, use a spot meter to read the light coming off the fluorescing object. This reading should be accurate enough to determine the proper exposure. If the image is overexposed, it will appear as a glowing, colorful light. Underexposed, it will appear flat, and lack dimension. Exposed at the meter reading F-stop, the effect will appear as a nice, bright, saturated color. However, different film stocks—and different colors—will produce slightly different results. For best and brightest results, place the camera at the angle of incidence of the light source. In other words, if the light strikes the subject at 85°, place the camera at 95°. (180° - 85° = 95°) Backlighting is typically not effective, unless you’re using a transparent UV-sensitive material. Side and ¾ rim produce interesting results. When it comes down to it, you just need to test. Always perform test shots before making final shots. Experiment a little. You’ll soon be well on your way to creating some spectacular shots! Remember to use our comments only as guidelines and recommendations, not as hard and fast rules. |